Upper Dharamsala, otherwise known as Mcleod Ganj, is a medium for cross-cultural communication unlike anything I’ve encountered on previous travels. With its deep Indian roots, unmistakable Tibetan flare, and recent Western influence, it induces a disorienting but delightful cultural whiplash. It’s not uncommon for me to find myself wearing an Indian outfit, complete with bindi and bangle, studying Tibetan and befriending Buddhist monks and nuns, all the while sitting in a western-style coffee shop with a familiar Beatles’ song playing in the background. The diverse cultures do not mesh seamlessly by any means, but they coexist in a delicate balance that is fascinating to observe.

I’m spending more time in Mcleod now as I try to get a better sense of the Tibetan presence there. I’ve become more comfortable in the area and have been fortunate to meet some fellow tourists who have provided helpful contacts for my research. One evening as I was walking down the mountain from Mcleod to lower Dharamsala for dinner, I met an American woman whose involvement in human rights law concerning Tibet has brought her to the area. She’s done a good deal of local research and was interested to hear about my project. From her, I learned about an organization called Learning and Ideas for Tibet (L.I.T). It was started by a former Gu-Chu-Sum student for the purpose of teaching Tibetans and Western tourists about Tibetan culture in an open atmosphere that fosters positive interaction between East and West.

Upon returning home that evening, I did some further research on the organization and corresponded with one of their current volunteers via e-mail. I stopped by their office Wednesday afternoon and stayed for part of an English conversation class, in which we discussed the eleventh Panchen Lama, who Tibetans consider their youngest political prisoner. He ranks immediately below the Dalai Lama in importance and traditionally plays an instrumental role in naming the next Dalai Lama. There was a good turnout for the class, and several of the attendees were lay women, so I enjoyed learning a bit about their lives in the time before our formal discussion began. While there, I met another woman who, like my friend from Tibetan class, has children who stay in one of the residential Tibetan Children’s Villages even though she lives in the area. I’m hoping to find out if such cases are exceptions or norms in the exile community.

Through L.I.T., I also learned about Contact, a locally-based, monthly publication that covers various issues related to the Tibetan community in Dharamsala. It includes useful listings of restaurants, attractions, classes, and volunteer opportunities for people visiting the area. I spoke with the girl who coordinates the magazine, and she is sending me some rough material to edit for the next publication. I’m looking forward to getting involved and meeting some of the local contributors, who are enthusiastic about sharing their stories and opinions on the situation in Tibet.

I’m currently working on setting up some formal interviews for my research project and am hoping to make some more contacts over the upcoming weekend. I recently went to a shop in Dharamsala to get some basic business cards made, listing my name, e-mail address, and local cell phone number. Exchanging cards with interviewees as well as fellow visitors to the area has helped me network more effectively within the community. I’m hoping to maintain some of my contacts even after I return to the States, as I continue to piece together information for my final research report.